Do the Charleston Chew.

I'm just back from Charleston, a town with an accomplished, tight-knit culinary community. And far too many fine restaurants to cover in a four-day trip.

Though the thermostat was pushing 100 degrees, I tucked into summer's bounty on every plate: butter beans, sweet corn, tomatoes, cantaloupe and peaches.

I had terrific meals at Fish, O-Ku, Amen Street, Dixie Supply Bakery & Cafe, Oak Steakhouse and Caviar & Bananas, but my favorite meal was on John's Island at The Fat Hen, where Chef Fred Neuville coaxes the best out of seasonal produce and local seafood.

His oysters sauteed with country ham and wild mushrooms served over grilled bread are, in a word, life-affirming.

http://www.thefathen.com/.